Its unlikely that the head responsible for playback would have failedĤ) since the VUs are not responding, no point fiddling with the interconnects and amplifier, that's got to be ok. When troubleshooting something not working, always start with the PSUĢ) a semiconductor on the head preamp may have failedģ) there may be a break in the head wiring circuit (this can be in many forms with may symptoms - like one channel working, both channels down with grounding hum, etc). No sound but mechanicals appear to be working:ġ) a transistor in the PSU which feeds the board, may be out (the symptom of it playing for 2 days and going dead can mean that the PSU regulators could have been running hot and failed. see if that does anything before playing it in the car again.Some checks to keep in mind with cassette decks: I might just play it on a boombox and ground the capstan. They somehow stay on the tape after playing it. Perhaps the ticks are formed as charges on the tape travel across the head circuitry and back onto the tape? Does that sound silly? I mean, it's not like the charges leave the tape during playback. Sometimes the leader has no ticks whatsoever, but as soon as it hits the magnetic tape, tick tick tick tick. I don't think it's the shell because I did that whole glass cleaning solution process. I don't have a demag wand and I don't know of a practical way to get in there and demagnetize the head.Īs far as we know, the ticks are getting to the speakers, and they only appear on a handful of my cassettes, so they also appear in some form before reaching the play head. And I mean like two weeks ago, and they're new, not never even heard of a zerostat It's never been demagnetized. Remember, I opened the offenders recently, too. Maybe they were manufactured somewhere else and somehow they accumulated charge. One interesting thing I'd like to point out though is that the difference between these problematic Maxell URs from all my other modern Maxell URs is that the tape appears slightly lighter in color, is slightly more transparent, and sounds a little duller. The slip sheets stopped sticking to the shell, but it did not eliminate the ticks. I used a generic glass cleaning solution and wiped all large parts of the cassette, including the reels. And then if I FF/REW and play again, those ticks might move somewhere else on the reel. For instance, a few songs are clean now, but the rest have those ticking static sounds. It turns out that I am able to move the ticks to some position the reel somehow but I cannot eliminate them. You guys recall when I said I managed to "improve the situation significantly"? Yeah, well I lied. Some of the antistatic sprays like those used to clean and/or treat antistatic/ESD work mats are slimy & stay that way. Yes the VinylEx, ArmorAll and carnauba car wax can be & will be slippery, they are NOT slimy when applied right. You also need to verify that it WON'T damage the plastic and/or the printing on the shell. That said some of these are quite slimy & stay that way. That said you can still get antistatic or static dissipating sprays. BUT I SUGGEST that you FIRST try it on a tape that you DON'T care IF it gets erased or otherwise damaged audibly from it's use on the cassette.
The use of a Zero Stat record antistatic tool is a good idea. Which it does help dissipate the static & fend it off longer, but it does need to be redone from time to time.
#Tapedeck sound effect tv#
I use some carnauba car wax on my 26" CRT TV from time to time to help keep dust off due to static cling & attraction. You could also try using some car wax on the shell to help dissipate the static. Usually any liquid cleaner (at least those safe for plastics), and even something like VinylEx or ArmorAll can be used. amplifies it and you have the irritating clicking or popping. Your tape deck is the perfect path for a discharge all of that metal and then on top of that the high gain circuitry in the tape head amp. The charge needs a path or return to neutral or to be dissipated over a conductive surface. We used to use aluminum foil on circuit boards before shipping when the boss was to cheap to buy anti-static bags. Sitting here brain storming you may want to try winding the tape to one end, wrap the tape in aluminum foil and see if that discharges the shell or returns it to neutral ground. You had to use a thin film of liquid dish soap on the face of the meter to get rid of the static electricity to restore proper operation. Now in the old days when test equipment had meters with plastic covers the needle on the meter would be affected by static electricity and the needle or indicator would not return to zero. If you can find it 409 is a liquid cleaner.
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